The heathen towers

stone witnesses

When the first Romanesque church of St. Stephen is gutted by fire in 1258, it’s an opportunity for an extensive overhaul: not only the interior is renovated, but another level is added onto the heathen towers, which were originally intended to be somewhat smaller. The left hand tower to the north is now 66.3m high, the right hand tower to the south 65.3m.

There are many theories as to the origin of the name heathen towers. One is that the remains of the city wall from Roman – or heathen – times are used in the construction of the west facade. Another is that the spires resemble non-Christian minarets. But the name could also have something to do with the larger-than-life phallus and vulva, depicted left and right of the giant’s door respectively. Neither of these fertility symbols, each crowning a column, is of Christian origin.