Georgia, the Georgians and the "supra"

A few words on Georgian hospitality
The Georgians are famous for their hospitality. They love guests and small talk on any subject. People in Samtskhe-Javakheti are no exception. A famous Georgian saying goes: "The arrival of a guest is like the rising sun, the departure of a guest is like the sunset". 

Encounters with locals can be a unique experience. Some knowledge of Russian may help to start a conversation with older people, with younger people English is sometimes useful. Always treat Georgian locals with politeness and respect, especially if you should get invited into someone's home. They will usually receive you warmly and feed you generously, so it is never wrong to bring a little present. And don't be surprised: presents will only be opened after the guests have left.

Invitations to people’s homes have become rare with increasing tourism, on the other hand, invitations to enjoy a glass of wine are still common. But watch out: Georgians are hard drinkers, they can take enormous quantities and very often they start with wine and end up with much stronger stuff, like "chacha", the famous local grape schnapps.  So, if you accept an invitation, be aware that you might not remember much of the evening.

The "supra" and its rules
An “lkhinis”, the "supra" on a joyful occasion, always comprises four components: wine, food, toasting and singing. There is always a lot of food from starters to sweets and always a lot of wine that must never run out. Head and most important person of a "supra" is the "tamada", who is determined by the host. The "tamada" is usually a man and he conducts the toasts. Some toasts are traditionally predetermined, others are free. The "tamada" has to address and praise every single participant of the "supra" with a personal toast; sarcasm or bad joking is strictly forbidden. Drinking is only allowed, when the "tamada" raises his glass. And when he does, you have to empty your glass in one gulp.The number of toasts is not limited, but the last one is always to Mary, Mother of God.

A "kelekhi", the "supra" on a sad occasion, follows even stricter guidelines. The choice of food is more modest, and the number of toasts is uneven, usually 9 or 13. The last toast always goes to the "tamada", a person, who will have known the deceased very well. 

Being the "tamada" and hosting a "supra" is still considered a big honor, although younger generations in Georgia have started to look at the tradition of the "supra" in a more critical way.

Picture credits: beyondarts GmbH

Project “Increased regional added value in the tourism sectors of Georgia by Digital Heritage Tourism Guides” was funded by the Austrian Development Agency (ADA) with funds of Austrian Development Cooperation.