The Doukhobors of Gorelovka

Spiritual Warriors

In the south of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, 12 km southeast of the city of Ninotsminda and around 10 km away from the Armenian border, the little village of Gorelovka is home to a small, but fascinating Orthodox-Protestant society, the Doukhobors.

Gorelovka was founded around 1840, when the Doukhobors or “spirit warriors”, as they call themselves, came to the region from Russia. They had been exiled by Tsar Nicholas I following the Doukhobors’ rejection of Russian Orthodoxy and refusal - as pacifists – to join the army.

The Doukhobors founded eight villages in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, with Gorelovka being the biggest. Contemporary sources describe the new settlers as hardworking and disciplined people, who acted with great enthusiasm. They soon formed a lively agricultural community and over the years became one of the richest communities in the Caucasus.

During Soviet rule over Georgia, the Gorelovka collective farm was the second wealthiest agricultural community in the whole Soviet Union. The famous Russian poet Leo Tolstoy was said to be a great fan and supporter of the Doukhobors. He founded a school which still exists and is the only Gorelovka school in operation today. And he was said to have helped many Doukhobors relocate to Western Canada, where there is now a large Doukhobor population.

Over the past twenty years the young population in Gorelovka and other Doukhobor villages has seen a marked decline in numbers, mostly due to lack of opportunities in education and jobs. Nowadays approximately 150 families are left, and most of them live in Gorelovka.

For those, who are left, life in Gorelovka is not easy. At more than 2000 meters above sea level, winters are long and harsh, and summers are short. But in late June and July, Gorelovka is a picturesque place, with great plains and beautiful mountains surrounding the small village.

These days Gorelovka is not only home to the Doukhobors, as Armenians and Muslims have been moving into the area since the fall of the Soviet Union. And although the different ethnic societies peacefully coexist, there is one notable separation: Muslims are prohibited from burying their dead in the village cemetery forcing them to travel some 250 km to the nearest Muslim one.

But despite the difficulties of nature and ethnic diversity, life in Gorelovka is peaceful. The Doukhobors not only believe in coexistence with nature, they are still convinced pacifists, reject personal materialism and hold on to their tradition of oral history with memorized hymns and verses. Their traditional clothes with brilliant colors express their joy of life just like their wooden houses, painted in blue, green and white. 

And there maybe another reason, why life in the Doukhobor community has been functioning so well for centuries: there never seems to have been a great gender gap. Women enjoy a great deal of freedom and respect within the community and often hold the office of spiritual leaders.    

How to get there:
Golreovka is located in the south of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, 12km southeast of the city of Ninotsminda and just some 10km away from the Armenian border. Taxi drive from Ninotsminda is app. 15 minutes (10 GEL).

Distances from major cities:
Ninotsminda - Gorelovka: 12km | Akhaltsikhe - Gorelovka: 103km

Admission fee:
There is no entrance fee.

Important things to know:
Gorelovka lies at more than 2000 meters above sea level. We strongly suggest that you visit the village during July or early August and bring solid shoes and warm clothes at any time. There is a little shop for water, food and handicraft and some small guest houses.

Picture credits: beyondarts GmbH

Project “Increased regional added value in the tourism sectors of Georgia by Digital Heritage Tourism Guides” was funded by the Austrian Development Agency (ADA) with funds of Austrian Development Cooperation.